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Brno, a city surrounded by woody hills

Wilson Jone |
Brno has it all for everybody. Its area is known for some of the best vineyards in the region, it hosts Motorcycle Grand Prix that is part of the World Grand Prix, it is home to innumerable historical curiosities, beautiful castles, churches, and parks.

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Brno, the second largest city in the Czech Republic, is a city of galleries, museums, cafes, clubs and festivals. This is the place to see charming Czech style of life without being trapped in endless tourists groups you'd experience in Prague. The largest Moravian city mixes Neoclassical buildings and Art Nouveau, caffes with wine bars, bohemian life with the touch of old empire. Its calming and friendly atmosphere are ideal for students - 33 faculties! - business people visiting one of the largest exhibition centers, fans of easy living and historical moments.

Old buildings are interesting wherever you go, but the Old Town Hall in Brno is something special. The central spire on the Old Town Hall Gate looks like, well, a drunk mason. But, the story says that a mason was not very happy after the city council didn't pay him, so he made the thing a bit more interesting. As it is the case in old European towns, near the Old Town Hall there is the Cabbage Market. You can't miss it: In its center there is a fountain, 320 years or so old, with scenes from Greek mythology. Don't ask why the scenes are not from Czech mythology.

If you take a walk from the Cabbage Market, you will reach the Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul, a scene that dominates the Brno skyline with its spires. It opens at 11am or 11:45am on Sundays, so if you are an early bird it won't be of use. In that case go the opposite side of the Cabbage Market to see the Capuchin Church and Monastery. Due to the unique soil and system of air holes, the bodies of the monks laid to rest there have been amazingly well-preserved. But you'll have to pay to see mummies.

As any old city that celebrates its history, Brno has its own distinctive clock. However, this one is not something usual: this is a phallic statue for which you might think it's a symbol of fertility but no, the clock in Freedom Square is a reference to the 1645 Battle of Brno. If the Swedish didn’'t capture the city by noon, they planned to retreat. So, Brno sounded their bells at 11am, an hour early, leaving historians wondering how the Swedish army won any battler if they can fall for that trick.

If you want something new, Villa Tugendhat, designed by German architect Mies van der Rohe in 1930, is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, while the Mendel Museum of Genetics is a place to see for any serious science fan. While at museums, built in the mid-13th century, the royal Spilberk Castle, has a long history of being used both as a military fortress, as well as a prison. Back then it was considered as the harshest prison in the Austro-Hungarian empire. Today it houses the Brno City Museum. The view from the castle is spectacular: you can see the cathedral and the whole city down below.

Between the Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul and the Spilberk Castle there are Denis gardens, one of the most beautiful parks in Brno and the oldest public park in the country. If all that walk made you hungry know that Brno's cafes offer a nice selection of sweet and savory pastries. So, take a cup of coffee - Brno is a town with cafes scattered around every street - and try rakvička, a small pastry covered with cream. Enjoy the moment and watch people passing by before you go to do some shopping.

Ceska and Masarykova street are the city's busiest streets with a popular meeting place under the clock. In the city center there are few shopping malls, the biggest and the most favorite one being Vankovka. If you want to experience a relaxing bohemian atmosphere, then Kamenna district is for you. This former workers' area is now home of local artists, intellectuals and architects. Not exactly Montmartre, but close. While wandering around you'll most probably get thirsty. South Moravia offers high quality wine and since you are already there it would be a shame not to taste some.

Brno has a vast network of bike paths and innumerable marked trails available to hiking fans some of which runs through the forest and will take you to other castles. Visit the city during the summer to take the advantage of its beautiful countryside and enjoy a boat ride on the Svratka River that flows through the city. Don't miss to visit the Brno Reservoir, a dam on the Svratka River! It is a popular recreational area - water sports fans, go! At the turn of May and June, an international fireworks competition, Ignis Brunensis, is held there each year.


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