Istria, Croatian peninsula situated in the westernmost part of Croatia, in its northern part, south of the River Mirna valley, hides Motovun, a medieval town which is, as the legend says, built by giants.
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Long, long time ago at River Mirna valley giants lived, the story goes. They were so huge and strong that they could hand each other massive rocks and tools above villages in the valley. One of the towns they built at those glorious times is Motovun, one of the most beautiful little towns in Istria set on the hill.
Some other story says, a "new age" research to be more precise, that Motovun is situated on the intersection of the Earth's energetic meridians, so called "Dragon's furrows". Those meridians are a sort of "energy fields", "breathing orifices" of the planet Earth and, apparently, they have a calming effect on people and they are increasing their concentration.
Anyway, what we know for sure, what the history noted, is that during their domination of the Adriatic Sea, Venetians exported wood from Motovun forests to build their boats while Austro-Hungarian nobility and kings of Rome enjoyed truffles from Motovun's forest. Today, winged-lions remind Motovun of five hundred years of Venetian domination in Istria. Motovun has them thirteen, more than any other Istrian town, some of them with an open book as a symbol of peace and some with a closed book as a symbol of war.
During centuries "loved" by many conquerors, Motovun surrounded itself with two rings of walls dating back to the 13th, 14th and 15th century, and kept its medieval look until the present time. Under the whole town there is still a water tank which had the task to supply the town with water from two wells. Gradiziol and Borgo streets lead to the town while 1052 stairs, the longest staircase in Istria, lead to the top of the hill. Medieval-built shaded streets, squares, gates, towers and churches, they all have their stories.
At the very top of a 277 meters hill there is the main square which you enter through the ancient main town gate. There you will find the palace dating back to the 18th century which is a charming Hotel Kastel today which hosts Motovun film festival and many congresses all year round. Huge terraces and rooms offer an outstanding view to the nearby vineyards and River Mirna. On the left side of the hotel there is the parish church of Saint Stephan with jagged bell-tower, the famous town's landmark and the town palace across it.
It is nice to visit Motovun in spring and enjoy in fresh asparagus picked up in the Motovun forest just minutes ago, or in May when the whole town goes middle age and becomes one big history stage with knights, dragons and stuff. It is nice to visit Motovun in summer, to rent a canoe and take a ride along the River Mirna, or to go fishing or free climbing and horseback riding. It is also the time of the most delicious meals prepared with black truffles.
It is nice to visit Motovun in autumn when the most tasteful and expensive white truffles grow and when citizens and their guests prune grapes which soon will be Malvazia and Muscatine, the best Istrian wines. Add to that the world's famous Istrian prosciutto, light and tasteful food, famous olive oil, and it will be hard for you to leave that place. It is nice to visit Motovun in winter when the weather is friendly to the town and there are no tourists around while basements hide tasteful products of a benevolent year. ■
